The Brough of Birsay, a tidal island, is one of the
bestknown archaeological sites in Orkney, projecting out into the Atlantic at
the northwest corner of Birsay Bay and separated by the 238-m-wide Brough Sound
from the Point of Buckquoy. Its name derives from Old Norse borg (fortress or
stronghold), which can refer to either a broch (a fortified dwelling), or, as
is more likely in this case, the natural defensive qualities of an island
difficult of access.
The earliest archaeological work on this site appears to
have been by Sir Henry Dryden in 1870, who cleared out the chapel. The site
came into the care of the secretary of state for Scotland in 1934, and
considerable clearance and excavation took place to prepare the site for the
general public. This work was curtailed with the outbreak of World War II, but
the finds from the excavations have been published by C. L. Curle, along with
the finds from the later campaigns of C. A. R. Radford and S. H. Cruden in the
1950s and 1960s. Interim accounts of aspects of the later work have been
published. Earlier structural elements uncovered below the chapel have
generally been associated with the pre-Norse church. However, these earlier
structural elements no longer need to be associated with the so-called Celtic
church but, by analogy with the Brough of Deerness and Brattahlid in Greenland,
may be dated to the Norse period.
Work was resumed on a small scale in 1973; in the area to
the east of the chapel, Room 5 was excavated. Essentially, four major periods
were distinguished. From analysis of the associated finds, together with some
radiocarbon C-14 (ninth century or later) dating, the first may be assigned to
the pre-Norse (Pictish) phase (pre-800) and the later three to the Norse. Only
the last phase relates to the laid-out, standing building. Following this work,
a renewed large-scale series of excavations was begun by J. R. Hunter and C. D.
Morris in 1974 and continued until 1982. There is now clear evidence from the
Brough of Birsay for many buildings (far more, across a wider area, than
originally envisaged) dating to the Norse and Pictish periods. There is also
clear evidence here for multiphase activity, with the replacement of buildings
and often their complete reorientation in relation to the local topography.
There has been much discussion of the significance of the
entries in the Orkneyinga Saga concerning the "minster dedicated to
Christ" at Birsay established by Earl Thorfinn the Mighty. Both Radford
and Cruden take the view that the buildings mentioned in the Saga can be
identified with structures excavated on the brough. Others (e. g., the Royal
Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland; R. G. Lamb) see
these structures as twelfth century (rather than eleventh) and monastic in
character and favor a location for the "minster" in the village area.
In 1982, excavations took place under the direction of Barber in advance of
restoration of the parish church of St. Magnus. Structural elements uncovered
below the present church have been accorded a probable twelfth-century date,
and it is suggested that the present building was preceded by a pre-
Reformation church of some sophistication. However, the dating accorded to the
remains does not enable firm associations with the historical data, and so it
cannot yet be claimed that the "minster" was originally located in
the village.
Norse Christianity clearly focused upon Birsay, but once the
cathedral was built in Kirkwall, the focus of secular and ecclesiastical power
shifted away. Little is known of events here between the twelfth and the
sixteenth centuries. However, by the sixteenth century, much of Birsay had been
transferred from the hands of the earl of Orkney to the bishops of Orkney, and
in that century it is clear that the bishops used a palace hereabouts. In the
sixteenth century, an otherwise unknown writer, "Jo Ben," described
Birsay as having "an excellent palace"; according to local tradition,
the presence of walls and other features in the area to the south of the parish
church may relate to this palace.
The significance of Birsay in the sixteenth century is
reinforced by the building of an imposing Earl's Palace to the north of the
Burn of Boardhouse. This was constructed with ranges of buildings around a
courtyard with projecting rectangular towers at three corners, perhaps dated to
1574. It is probable that, in the construction of the Earl's Palace, stones
from the older Bishop's Palace were reused. However, the regained significance
of Birsay was short lived, and P. D. Anderson (1983) has suggested that
deterioration of the Earl's Palace is recorded from as early as 1653. The gaunt
ruins of the palace are perhaps visible reminders of what has been described as
the "dark period" of Orkney's history under the Stewart earls.
There are clear indications that buildings from the Viking
and late Norse periods remain to be discovered in the area to the south of the
village. The place-name Tuftaback, bank or slope of house sites, might well be
equated with the area to the south of the Burn of Boardhouse. Here, buildings
and middens of some complexity have been uncovered on top of a mound site
composed of archaeological deposits presumably going back into prehistory. A
second such mound site almost certainly exists below an adjacent modern
building and extends down to the riverbank.
Beyond the village to the south are the Links, at the
southern end of which is Saevar Howe, another multiperiod mound site, which was
examined in the nineteenth century by Farrer and more recently by J. W. Hedges.
Pictish buildings here were apparently built on top of a prehistoric site and
were themselves superseded by Viking Age dwellings. On top of these were the
remains of a Christian Norse cemetery-although not recognized as such in the
nineteenth century.
Cemeteries from both the Roman Iron Age/Pictish and the
Viking periods have also been recognized from the area between the village and
the brough to the north. The earlier burials are marked by cist graves below
mounds of sand and stone cairns, without accompanying grave goods. The later
burials were either in cists or simply dug into the contemporary ground
surface, but they were accompanied by grave goods recognizably Viking in form
and date.
Radiocarbon determinations have confirmed these chronological
attributions. Even earlier, the area was clearly of significance in the earlier
Iron Age (structural evidence) and the Bronze Age (midden deposits).
Fragmentary traces of settlement remains of the Viking period have also been
excavated in this area, with accompanying rich midden deposits, and a
characteristic figure-eight-shaped dwelling from the late Pictish period. This
series of excavations directed by Morris between the village and the brough has
received full publication. Of particular interest and significance was the
nearby site at Buckquoy excavated by A. Ritchie. Here, a Pictish farmstead was uncovered,
of two major periods, succeeded by a Norse farmstead. It has also been
suggested that the evidence points to some degree of coexistence by the two
groups.
Extensive archaeological research supports the conclusion,
derived from written sources, that Birsay was a center of political and
ecclesiastical power during the Viking and late Norse periods. In addition,
there is also evidence to support Birsay's importance in the preceding Pictish
period, together with its imperfectly understood role in prehistoric Orkney.